Day 72 Englishtown to North Sydney, Nova Scotia, then an overnight ferry to Argentia, Newfoundland

 24.7 miles, 1,640 ft ascent

This morning we slept in until 08:00 and then had a short ride with significant climbing to the  port to catch our ferry bound for Newfoundland.  Since Cape Breton is not flat anywhere, we rode up to excellent vantage points to look downward in order to photograph the coast below.

 

This red squirrel attempted to get into Eric's pack during breakfast this morning.  Cyclists were 10 feet away eating at a picnic table, but the little guy remained undeterred.  We were amused at his brazen attitude.

 

 

 

One of his family members or colleagues managed to chew its way into a bike pack of mine under cover of night.  First the bandit raccoons, now the thieving squirrels! 

 

 

 

We did not ride the Cabot Trail today, but the scenery remained grandiose and no one was disappointed in the vistas.

 

 

 

This view is from St. Anne's Overlook on Highway 105.   From lake level we climbed to get a high perspective for this photo.

 

 

 

There are many charming little harbors like this one filled with boats for both fishing and recreation along the coast .

 

 

 

 

Tidal currents interacting with a bridge pylon created this pattern of foam in the water.

 

 

 

 

Cyclists and our bikes were loaded on the Cycle Canada van for the 426 km ferry ride from Nova Scotia to Newfoundland.  Simon (Ace) and Roger are shown here on top of the van loading bicycles.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The ferry's name is My Atlantic Vision.  Stats:  203 m long, 25 m wide, 11 levels, 150 cabins, 200 reclining seats, 700 person capacity, 600 lifeboat capacity (Hmmmm, why not 700?)  The route is 322 miles, and will require 16.5 hours to complete at an average speed of 20 mph.

 

 

 

Our cabin for 4 with 2 bunks and a washroom with shower.  Nicer than a tent and no bandit raccoons, thieving squirrels, or voracious mosquitos!

 Buffet dinner on Tour du Canada.  I will choose Atlantic cod.

After sailing for about 16 hours tonight, we will all be excited to arrive tomorrow morning in Newfoundland.  During the two days of riding there, we still hope to find the ever elusive bull moose.  (The only moose we have seen have been cows, despite many warning signs alerting us to the presence of bull moose in various locations.)  In addition, we look forward to taking part in the screech-in ceremony by which we become honorary Newfoundlanders.  

 

The day after the tour ends, I aspire to riding to Cape Spear, south of St. John's, and the easternmost point in North America.   You are invited to join me on my odyssey!

 

 

Day 71 Dingwall to Englishtown, Nova Scotia Day 2 on the Cabot Trail

 65.4 miles, 4500 ft ascent

Brad, a Canadian cyclist from Ontario and member of our tour, related a conversation he had with an American from Maryland.  When Brad inquired as to what the Marylander thought of the Cabot Trail, the American replied that he didn't like it that much.  He was disappointed that there were not more amusement parks and commercial opportunities along the route.  He obviously had not done his research, and therefore, did not understand that the Cabot Trail is famous for the raw natural beauty and undeveloped landscape.  It does not pretend to be Las Vegas, Disney World, or Six Flags, and for just that reason, is one of the most beautiful places on earth.

Looking back from down the road at the bay where we camped last night.

 

Another bay created by a point of land.

 

Another view of the point in front of our campground.

 

 

This beautiful scene reminded me of the Norwegian fjords.

 

 

 

Hmmmm.  This was a first.  We never noticed signs in other provinces indicating a public shooting range.  

 

 

A New Haven harbor

 

 

A boat out of water for maintenance, which is high in salt water.

 

 

Shimmering waters.  Oh so beautiful!

 

 

 

A modest house on the Atlantic.  Note the star indicating that an Acadian resides here.  Many of these homes displayed the star on the Acadian flag.  The people do not forget that the British expelled Acadians living in all the maritime provinces.

 

 

A lighthouse to the far right of the photo.

 

Smallmouth bass, held in high esteem in the northern USA for their energy and fight, are classified here as an invasive species to be removed.  These rocks looked like prime smallmouth territory.  Wish I had my rod with me!

 

 

 

Bruce joined Eric for a snack at a picnic table during a break.  It is easy to lose human beings amidst the grandeur of the scenery here.

 

More shots from the Cabot Trail follow.

Note the cairn on this rocky beach.

A brackish bay off the body of saltwater.

This tree with its arms outstretched seemed to be looking for help or guidance.

 

Time for lunch!  We all needed extra calories to power up the mountain in the afternoon.  I chose seafood chowder accompanied by a grilled cheese sandwich.

 

Situated near a golf course, we came upon this breeding ground for the voracious Canadian mosquito. Glad we aren't camping too close to this site.

 

 

We found this gondola ride for viewing the Atlantic and Nova Scotia.  It appeared to be for folks not inclined to bicycle for their tourist adventures.

 

 

After our grueling climb, we flew down this ribbon of road that I photographed from the top before our descent.

 

A short voyage on the Englishtown Ferry followed.

 

Captain's roost on the ferry Torquil Maclean.

The terrain on the Cabot Trail today was not nearly as challenging as that on yesterday's ride.  The major mountain climb to the top of Smokey Mountain was not nearly as steep, with much of it at a 3.5 to 4% grade.  It was long, but not so taxing on the leg muscles.  

 

We took a more challenging diversion on a a coastal road before getting on the true Cabot Trail.  The diversion was actually more challenging than the Cabot Trail itself.  It had about a 100 meter section of 13-14% grade, similar to the grade that we rode much further yesterday.  The diversion stretch was difficult today, because our legs were used up yesterday.  My legs felt like jelly rolls today on the steepest climbs, but all riders, including this one, succeeded in conquering the second section of the Cabot Trail today.

Day 70 Lake Ainslie to Dingwall, Nova Scotia and Day 1 on the Cabot Trail

 

89.4 miles, 6,970 ft ascent

There was beautiful scenery all along our route today on the Cabot Trail.  Don, one of my Canadian colleagues, says that the Cabot Trail in Nova Scotia is rated as one of the top three scenic drives in the world, along with Big Sur in California, and a route in Italy.  I don't know the source of his information, but the trail with its majestic vistas is  truly  a thing to behold, as you will see in the photos that follow! 

From a bay out into the Atlantic while riding the Cabot Trail.

 

 

A farmer's message to help us keep things in perspective here.

 

  The Trail is well marked.

 

We liked this sign, because its graphic highlights our cycling road.

I did not mention that the Cabot Trail is in a Canadian National Park.

 

The flag of Nova Scotia, flying below the Canadian flag, appropriately bears the Lion Rampant symbol of the flag of Scotland.

"Although the national flag of Scotland is the blue and white 'Saltire', there is also a second, quite different, flag which is called the 'Lion Rampant'.

The 'Lion Flag' is often considered the unofficial national flag and referred to as the 'Royal Flag of Scotland'.

The 'Royal' term applies because this flag historically, and legally, belongs to the monarchy (or royalty) - more specifically to a King or Queen of Scotland.

As there hasn't been a Scottish King or Queen since the 17th Century, it now belongs to Queen Elizabeth II. It's a more colorful and dramatic flag than the Saltire, and may be a little more memorable because of that."  https://www.scottish-at-heart.com/lion-rampant.html

 

 

 More beautiful scenery.......

 

 

The Highlands

 

 

 Roadway was quite good in most places.

 

 

Grand-Etang Harbor

More natural beauty from the Cabot Trail

A church in Cheticamp, a town on the Cabot Trail.  The stone work is similar to churches we saw in Scotland.

More grandeur.

We later rode on the ribbon of road as seen in the distance below.

French Lake, one of the highland lakes.

Yet more majesty....

This geodesic dome serves as lodging for tourists visiting the Cabot Trail.  I also saw a "village" of tiny house accommodations.

I found this cloud formation interesting.  It resembled packing "peanuts".

 

The first significant sustained climb of the day was on French Mountain.  I estimate it to be in the 6-7% grade range for 1,400 ft of ascent.  This happy cyclist sported a grin after climbing it.  He was disappointed that there was no sign for a photo after ascending the challenging North Mountain.....shucks!

And finally, on a bay of the Atlantic, we camped at day's end.

It was an extremely difficult day of climbing, probably the hardest on the entire Tour du Canada.  Grades on the Cabot Trail are steeper than either those in the Rockies, or on the Canadian Shield north of Lake Superior.  I managed not to have to walk on a climb up North Mountain with about a mile of 13-14% grade and lots of 11 % for a total ascent of about 1,400 ft.  Had I not strengthened my legs during the nearly 4,800 miles we have ridden across Canada since June,  I would not have been able to do that.  

Another day of hard climbing tomorrow!  Come back to see whether the grinning cyclist was able to stay mounted or reduced to walking part of the trail.  No shame in that, mind you!